hi so an update ..
I de-solderd the LED on the board, and replaced with wires.. *black + red
also attached wires directly to the S0 screw terminals soldering points (green + orange)
also on the removed led solderd 2 cables since leds only work when + and - are connected propperly i didn't bother with kathode/anode.
- additional LED (straight from package) unknown spec's unfortunatly
Ps i use a 5 euro USB soldering iron .. and salvaged thin wire ..
This allowed me to test better ..
my conclusions (TLDR):
- supplied/solderd LED is weak but could work
- S0 does work ( I might have wrecked it ? )
TheHogNL wrote:Het kan zijn dat de led gewoon te zwak is om gedetecteerd te worden of de led pulse te kort duurt om voor de meteradapter op te merken als een puls.
Gezien het met S0 ook niet werkt denk ik het laatste (te kort dus).
- yes LED is weak even directly pointed to the "sensor" .. but when aligned right it does work
- swapping it with a better led is "recommended" I did and
When testing the S0 it didn't register on the multimeter (continuity setting did not beep..) so yes its "short" ..
however when connected now to the microjack / meteradapter it does work (same pulse as the LED) so the screw terminal(s) are junk ??
Ron_nl wrote:Heb je nog een andere optische opnemer die je kunt gebruiken, wellicht is die gevoeliger o.i.d
Of die LED produceert niet genoeg licht door het kleine gaatje van de behuizing, mss kun je het gaatje iets opboren.
Als ik op de foto kijk zie ik dat de LED vanaf de zijkant licht geeft door het gaatje van de behuizing, kan net iets minder licht zijn als dat hij vanaf de "kop" geeft.
Zomaar even een paar gedachtes..
Ron.
Yes you are right (led is sideways) but even "directly" it has "issues" .. so getting a "new" one and using the legs to get it to face directly trough the hole .. would be best ..
So this ordeal (many thanks again to TheHogNL) ..
The Power meter does work .. if you need/want to disasemple .. if you are carefull its easy to do
- all you need is a thin peace of metal .. (2 is better) and start left and right on .. to remove the DIN -Rail connector in the back lift a bit .. then do the same at the other end ..
now you can use the (large) screw terminals to push the board out ..
- press out the "window" ..
To desolder LED --> use a kitchen knife to apply "down-ward-pressure) between board and LED .. apply a little (new) solder to the contacts .. and then alternate between both points until LED pops out..
Anyway to be honest .. 20,- "no fuss" and maybe short delivery ? .. vs 7 or 8 euro and longer delivery time .. you decide ..