Automating centralized mechanical ventilation system

[Applefan]

I have bought and installed a Itho EcoFan2 with a RF remote.



I'm looking for a solution that:
* change from normal speed (1) to 2 or 3 depending of the humidity in the shower and go back to normal when the humidity is low again.
* Close the other ventilation pipes when the shower needs more ventilation at the ventilator side (not in the house on the sealing)
This because of the noise that we have in the livingroom ect when there is someone in the shower, and the loss of heat



I have seen these ventilation valves:



The last one is also for sale including a servo, but I don't know what and how on this moment.
For me it is possible to make a servo to change the valve (see these other projects opening doors and road stearing)

The problem is: how to communicate with the servo via Z-Wave?
At this moment I didn't found a solution.

Any help is welcome!
Also other mechanical solutions about the valve!

Marco

[Bwired]

Im not sure how much you benefit from your construction?
i agree with shutting down the vent outlet in the Kitchen/Livingroom when the shower vent is at full speed can help.
This cant suck the warm air from the livingroom. But if you cook you have the same problem.
As you probably know i have the same system as you have, and use the itho on high speed only if we shower.
This keeps the room very clean and the mirror is staying compleet dry, also al the equipment stays in much better shape.
I have a temp and humidity sensor in the bathroom which measures the damp.
I can switch the itho with the RFXio but you can also use the IPpower or IP products from Poseidon. you can also switch your intended valves with the relays on these boards. Why use wireless if you can use wires easy in your setting.

[DJF3]

Hi,

I have a similar system, without valves.
DEFAULT = system runs at level 1 (24/7)
HUMIDITY>65 bathroom = ventilation goes to level 3 for 15 minutes

Found that I NEVER use level 2.
I have placed a Xanura module that allows me to switch from level 1 to 3. The Xanura module (you could also use other modules) is built into the main ventilation box (the blue/gray one). This can of course be controlled by homeseer.
Would that be enough for you? If yes, I can find out how exactly I have connected the Xanura module.

Cheers
DJ

[Bwired]

Hi DJ

If you have the same itho, please tell how you did this with 1 Xanura?

[Jeroen Bartels]

I do the same with 1 KAKU switch:
If I remember correctly there are 5 wires:
Mass (aarde): always connected
Null: always connected
wire for level 1: Aways connected
Wire for level 2: never connected
Wire for level 3: Connected through switch.

So when wire 3 is not connected ventilation is running level 1. when wire 3 is connected (powered) it will run level 3.

I also use events for switching on bathroom humidity: 75% is the switching point. (above = level3, below = level 1)
If you want to be able to manually overrule the humidity you need a virtual device that needs to be 'on' (conditional event) to b able to run the ventilation off event.
P.S. If somebody spends more than 90 seconds on the toilet the ventilation wll run for 5 minutes too .

[DJF3]

Yes, that's exactly how I did it..

Let me know if you still need more help/pictures/etc.

DJ

[Bwired]

Ok thats clear and easy
Much smarter then use a extra remote on rfxio or ippower.
Thanks

[Applefan]

Thanks for the reactions!

I do the same with 1 KAKU switch:
If I remember correctly there are 5 wires:
Mass (aarde): always connected
Null: always connected
wire for level 1: Aways connected
Wire for level 2: never connected
Wire for level 3: Connected through switch.

So when wire 3 is not connected ventilation is running level 1. when wire 3 is connected (powered) it will run level 3.

I also use events for switching on bathroom humidity: 75% is the switching point. (above = level3, below = level 1)
If you want to be able to manually overrule the humidity you need a virtual device that needs to be 'on' (conditional event) to b able to run the ventilation off event.
P.S. If somebody spends more than 90 seconds on the toilet the ventilation wll run for 5 minutes too .

Is it possible to the KAKU switch with z-wave in combination of Vera2
I have a "normal" 220V connector. I have to change the speed on the remote.
Do I need an other switch (low voltage?)
Is the humidity sensor fast enough to change the ventilation for 1 to 3?
What sensor do you use?

Im not sure how much you benefit from your construction?
i agree with shutting down the vent outlet in the Kitchen/Livingroom when the shower vent is at full speed can help.
This cant suck the warm air from the livingroom. But if you cook you have the same problem.
As you probably know i have the same system as you have, and use the itho on high speed only if we shower.
This keeps the room very clean and the mirror is staying compleet dry, also al the equipment stays in much better shape.
I have a temp and humidity sensor in the bathroom which measures the damp.
I can switch the itho with the RFXio but you can also use the IPpower or IP products from Poseidon. you can also switch your intended valves with the relays on these boards. Why use wireless if you can use wires easy in your setting.

The kitchen has it own ventilation system, so there is no need to ventilate more there...

[DJF3]

You might have to check with the ventilation system vendor to see if there's wires in the ventilation box that allow you to set the speed.
Using a z-wave module instead of a KAKU module should be possible. It's just a 220v module that can switch lights/appliances. (just like my Xanura SAIX12)

I don't know your ventilation system so it's difficult to say how this would work together with your (RF) remote.

For humidity we use Oregon Scientific sensors. They are pretty cheap and work really well. (around euro 25 with display so you can see the humidity when taking a shower

[Applefan]

First I tried this to "push" a button by using an adapter and a simple relais: (what has to be connected to a z-wave plugin switch)



It works, but it send continuously a signal to the Itho for "speed3", but what I need is a "push" signal

To go back to normal I need again a "push" signal on for "speed1"

How to make a "push" signal...?

I can also do it different:
When I open the Itho I see the 220V connector on the print:


There are 2 pins that are from the perilex connector I think.
Maybe it is easier to change speed this way?
I have found this scheme:


When I'm thinking right I only have to change the position of L(brown) to pin 1 or 2 and that's all?
Would there be a problem to keep "speed1" and "speed 3" both connected at the same time?

Can somebody confirm if these pins are definitely from the perilex, and if my thoughts are right?

Thanks a lot!

Marco

[Jeroen Bartels]

"Would there be a problem to keep "speed1" and "speed 3" both connected at the same time? "

I use it like that. Speed 1 is always connected, Speed 3 sometimes.

[Bwired]

ps: lost of info is also here http://www.domoticaforum.eu/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=1632

[phoenixb]

Hi,

Maybe a nice addition to the ventilation control..

I use now for about 1 month (since the Moerdijk fire) a script that is looking site that can give me fire alerts so when i fire is too big and to close at my home i shutdown my home ventilation box and give a email alter to my phone that there is maybe a problem around my home.

(note a few days after the moerdijk fire the system shutdown correctly due to train fire in kijfhoek)

Grtz,

[Bwired]

I Updated my Itho ventilation setting today.
I was not able to switch pins 1 and 3 with a Xanura SAIX12?
So I installed a Xanura SAX15 (5A relay) which connects the pins together on A10/X10 command just fine.
So now I'm able to control the ITHO Home ventilator with the Xanura SAX15 Switch and also with the ITHO Remote.
I can completly switch it off with a Plugwise circle and measure its energy usage.