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I was searching for a neat and cheap solution to switch my outdoor light.
But it looked like the only solution was to buy a rather expensive Z-wave switch.
Luckily my brother pointed me at a relatively cheap Z-wave lamp-holder.
I ordered this EM6555 at domotica-shop.nl for the price of 15 Euro,

Last week I received my lamp holder switch and took it apart.
It was very easy to take the electronics out of the holder.
So I placed the PCB in the outdoor fixture and after including the outdoor light it did show up in HS3.
The device was popping up as a Everspring switch and it works like a charm

Just for anyone who wants to do something similar............

Specifications:

• Protocol: Wireless Z-Wave for home automation (868.42Mhz)
  Input: 230V, 50Hz
  Compatible lamps: Light bulbs and energy saving bulbs
  Generic load: Max. 100 Watts
  Socket: E27 (27mm)
  Operating temperature: 0°C - 40°C
  Repeater: Yes, repeater function for extended wireless range
  Usage: Indoor
  Indication LED: Yes
  Housing colour: Beige
  Warranty 5 Year (carry in)

Edit 16 jan 2016: Load 500 Watts -> 100 Watts (it seems that domotica-shop is bit to optimistic)

Good find! I just ordered the complete stock of domotica-shop

thanks, same here

i use the Philips living whites plug 69165 in a similar way . put it in serial with my lamps which are not remote controllable. Then the lamp has al the advantages of the Philips Hue system. They are not available currently.

you see old and new meet here.



amazon.de/dp/B00LEL8TY8/ref=pe_386171_3 ... TE_3p_dp_1

in Poland there are some left

http://swiatlamp.pl/product_info.php?products_id=19885

Very interesting solution with this EM6555 !!
I want to use this at some indoor lights. Three questions as I am not a real electrician:
1) can someone explain how to connect the wires (line=brown / neutral=blue / switch=black) when I want to put this between an existing light an existing switch.
2) I assume the existing switch still funcions ?
3) Can I also use it to switch "TL"-lights (don''t know the right English name for it..)

In the meantime I found that this device can switch lights of max 100 Watt.
Can anyone please answer my questions ?

Good find!

What are the dimensions of the PCB? It is a bit hard to tell from the picture.
Would be nice if it could fit in a 'inbouwdoos' in the wall.

It fits, see picture (50 mm "inbouwdoos").

Dimensions are 50x53x25 mm

Mai Pensato wrote:Very interesting solution with this EM6555 !!
I want to use this at some indoor lights. Three questions as I am not a real electrician:
1) can someone explain how to connect the wires (line=brown / neutral=blue / switch=black) when I want to put this between an existing light an existing switch.
2) I assume the existing switch still funcions ?
3) Can I also use it to switch "TL"-lights (don''t know the right English name for it..)

In the meantime I found that this device can switch lights of max 100 Watt.
Can anyone please answer my questions ?

According to the specifications it should be possible to switch energy saving bulbs so probably it will work with a tube light.
But because of the high inrush current the relay contact will probably last longer with a resistive load.

I changed the load in my first post to 100 Watt because it looks like domotica-shop has is to optimistic with 500 Watt.

Thanks Broes for your informative reaction!
I have ordered 3 of those devices because they are so cheap. And an advantage is that they have a router function so they can improve the z-wave network.
This is is a rebranded Everspring AN145. In the Everspring manual is written "the module cannot be screwed in an air tight environment / lamp stand". Despite this I will try to build one into a junction box. We will see...

I had a defect KaKu YC1000 plugin switch that i gutted and i placed one of those units inside the casing. It fits perfectly and now i have a 100W Z-wave plug for just 15,-
Great find!

Thanks for sharing !

Might upgrade my KaKu switches as well !

This is a cheap and nice DY solution, but the 100W max makes it only usable for lights.
Can't you replace the relay with a bigger one , or are the pcb tracks to small to handle that amount of A ?
Is there a dim function in this also ? if thats the case i guess it has no use to replace the relay since this is also calculated for 100-500w?

100W seems not much but most of the plugs i use is just to switch some lights and using a plug rated 1000W or even 3500W is save but could be used better at an other location. However it is possible to replace the relay for one that can switch a higher load. For now i see no need for this.

I was actually thinking about this to place behind your power sockets, so you can be able to switch those instead of having adapters in all the sockets.
Then 16A would be good to switch.
For lights it is more then enough since most lights are not 100W as far as i have experienced and now with LED it is even lower.